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Fashion Week SPACE

Paris Fashion Week: LVMH Nominee Koché Brings Couture to the Street (No, Really)

As with just about everything, the French say it so much better. What we in the States might call an alley is in Paris referred to as a “passage” (pronounce it softly, like a spa “massage”). Last Wednesday night, in one that dates back to the 18th Century and is filled these days with a world-sourced mix of importers, food markets and hair cutters, weavers, and braiders, recent LVMH nominee Christelle Kocher staged her third season of Koché.

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What’s important about the setting is what important about the brand: Central to Christelle’s work is the act of putting highly technical and exclusive craft into the mainstream—into the very lifeblood of humanity. At her day job, Christelle oversees specialized embellishments for, like, Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel; for Koché, she uses this fine, couture background to reimagine basketball shorts and jigsaw velvet and paillettes into easy dresses you can throw on over a pair of jeans.

You’ve heard before of designers who apply couture techniques to ready-to-wear, but very few do it so well, and with such extremes.

HERE’S WHAT IT WAS LIKE IN THAT MAGICAL ALLEYWAY

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Fashion Week SPACE

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2016: Ellery’s Love Letter to America

When the gorgeously minimal line Ellery debuts at SPACE this spring, it will mark a big step into America for Kym Ellery, the Australian-born Russh magazine creative-turned-designer behind it.

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Although the line is featured in gorgeous magazine editorial spreads all over Europe and Asia and worn and styled by some of fashion’s chicest global names, it’s under-known in the States. But not for long.

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London Fashion Week S/S 2016: SPACE Brand Aries and London’s Legendary Palace Skateboards

Fashion Week crossover warning: The shows are in Milan now,
but we have a few more things we want to share with you from London.

One of the signs of a great partnership is when one half of a duo has a lot to say about the other half. While out in East London visiting with Aries co-founder and co-designer Sofia Prantera, she brought up Fergus Purcell, her other creative half, quite often. And while she could have dropped any number of names alongside his (he worked with Marc Jacobs, Supreme and Alexander McQueen, for instance), the one we talked about was London’s legendary Palace Skateboards.

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Skate culture is central to the Aries story. Prantera and Purcell came of age in the time of raves and ramps, and after graduating from London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins in the ’90s, they worked together at Slam City Skates, the board brand that made it possible for Palace to come along later.

SPACE designer Ashley Williams also mentioned Palace Skateboards when she gave us her London List, so the Soho shop was already in my to-do notes, but when I took a recent spin through before leaving town, I looked at it all with a very Aries-centric lens.

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