After Raf Simons’s three-year stylistic overhaul at Christian Dior, the lovable designer split ties last October, leaving the latest collection in the hands of the brand’s studio team.
The proxy creative design position was led by studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who did a solid job envisioning a transitional collection that blended Dior’s historic silhouettes with Simons’s controlled sense of experimentation. There was a focus on tailored outerwear and clean lines, specifically the brand’s historical “New Look” silhouette, with cinched waists and flared skirts. Color and flourish were styled after Simons’s design mantra with flouncy, ruffled tops and embellished A-line skirts or ballooning sleeves; contrast cuffs teamed up with slim pencil skirts for a play on proportion. Execution aside, the same styles reappeared, reminding us of the collection’s placeholder status.