Jessa Carter

Fashion Week SPACE

SPACE Brand Undercover Does Great Gatsby at Paris Fashion Week

Undercover founder and creative head Jun Takahashi is good with a theme. Who can forget last year’s Rock and Roll Circus or the current season’s Snow White vibe? Spring 2017 has a musical note too—but this time there’s a ’60s-angled Jazz Age groove paired with distinct and playful throwbacks to the 1920s.

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All Images by Jessa Carter

At the show last Saturday, Miles Davis and the Bill Evans Trio poured out of the speakers and got splashed onto digital prints on long skirts, silk scarves and more. When Olivia and her team got into the showroom on Tuesday, however, they interpreted the pieces in such a way that these looks are now ready to go from a cocktail party screening of The Great Gatsby to a live, laid-back trip-hop recital with piano accompaniment.

Or they could, anyway, if that’s the kind of Sunday double feature you’d be into.

SEE NEXT SPRING’S SPACE LOOKS NOW

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What SPACE Designer Kym Ellery Was Doing 4 Days Before Her Paris Fashion Week Show

It’s Saturday evening on a quiet street along the Seine, and inside the grand old Haussmann-era flat where we’ve been asked to find Australia-based designer Kym Ellery and her team, “24 Hour Party People” by the Happy Mondays is charging through the speakers. The mood isn’t necessarily celebratory—it’s too early for that—but neither is the song’s, really. It’s the round-the-clock part that seems apt.

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All images by Jessa Carter

This team has less than four days to finalize and style the collection, fit all the models and make sure every element of the runway presentation has as much amplified grandeur and glamorous grit as these clothes do.

FIND OUT HOW THEY GET IT DONE

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Fashion Week

KENZO Before KENZO: A Backstage Lookbook from Paris Fashion Week

KENZO always puts on a show, but on Tuesday night at the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, they went full-on Studio 54 with it. In an homage to founder Kenzo Takada’s 1977 show at the iconic New York City nightclub—and inspired by and inclusive of the work of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez—creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon offered oversized patterned paillettes, military denim, exaggerated old-school jogging suits, plenty of digital prints and some shimmy-shimmy shake dresses.

Oh, and larger-than-life earrings and spring-loaded stilettos.

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All images by Jessa Carter

And as much as the back-to-back shows—one for buyers, another one for press—were full-on performances, the backstage moments were full of theater and antics as well. Here are 17 of our favorite scenes; keep an eye out for Robert Palmer-girl moodsfashion’s favorite Gurl Talker and palm tree camo.

CLICK IN TO SEE THE SHOW BEFORE THE SHOW

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Fashion Week SPACE

No Vetements Show This Paris Fashion Week, So They Released a Book Instead

If you’re waiting for a Vetements post this week, you probably missed the news that the cult brand switched up the schedule and showed earlier this summer, during Couture Week.

Demna Gvasalia and company do have something to reveal this week though; Vetements Summercamp, a volume of images shot by Corsican photographer Pierre-Ange Carlotti over a long weekend in a northern France chateau temporarily inhabited by the brand’s friends and inner circle (wearing Vetements, of course). Published by Idea Books, it’s a fat, glossy volume with almost zero words—save for the branded text that appears on acid-green long-sleeve T-shirts and tube socks made in collaboration with Reebok.

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All images by Jessa Carter

The book was released on Monday afternoon in a courtyard party at Comme des GarçonsTrading Museum on Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. We saw Hari Neff, Lynn Yaeger, Carlotti with an autographing Sharpie (above) and a bunch of really cool-looking Vetements and Comme des Garçons devotees.

Want to see some pictures—from the book, and the event?

CLICK IN TO SEE HOW IT ALL WENT DOWN

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Fashion Week SPACE

SPACE Brand Koché: Feathers, Sequins and the Walk of Life at Paris Fashion Week

When Chloé alum and current CHANEL atelier artistic director Christelle Kocher debuted her own brand, Koché, one year ago, she did it in the subbasement of Forum des Halles, a shopping mall that “could not be more central to all of Paris.”

It was nighttime; everything was closed, and the mood was both egalitarian and individual. No air of privilege, no sense of the elite—but something sort of secret and utterly uncommon just the same. It set the perfect tone for the brand, creating just the right kind of buzz and energy.

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All images by Jessa Carter

Last season she took over an alleyway in an obscure neighborhood, expressing her mission to bring “poetry to the street” in a loud, gritty and thoroughly exhilarating way. And then earlier this week, during the first days of Fashion Week, she returned to Les Halles at the mall’s suggestion, this time setting up her version of a runway on the newly renovated, futuristic ground-floor level.

“The show, the brand, the story, the collection—these are all the same thing for me,” she told us a few days later when we met for tea near her studio. As a group they tell a story, and the story is about togetherness and hope despite the city’s recent traumas, and it’s about using the beauty of craft to uplift the ordinary. 

And it’s also about feathers, sequins, track jackets and a cool footwear collaboration with SPACE brand Adieu.

CLICK IN TO SEE SPORTY LACE AND EMBELLISHED WORKWEAR

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Buying Straight off the Runway at Loewe During Paris Fashion Week

Not all the pictures snapped by front-row fashion people go up on Instagram. When VP of designer apparel Jennifer Wheeler has her phone out and is firing away, it’s so that she can review her favorite looks later and reference them in the showroom. On Sunday she and Sahar Sokhandan and Lauren Zimmermann, from the designer buying team, arrive at Loewe‘s showroom with several key runway looks at the ready.

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All images by Jessa Carter

In particular, the black-and-white look we actually did Instagram. (See, those ringside snaps aren’t necessarily for social media, but the really amazing ones are bound to end up there.) While Jennifer scrolls through her digital image bank and Sahar pages through the thick, glossy pages in a spiral-bound book that the brand provides, the beautifully appointed room provides context and inspiration and they begin to put their buy together.

SEE WHAT OUR TEAM SELECTED AT LOEWE

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Fashion Week

Annie Georgia Greenberg Is Taking Over Our Instagram—and the World of Virtual Reality and Interesting Subcultures

At 27, Annie Georgia Greenberg is already in her second career. Sort of. She’s been a key personality at Refinery29 for almost as long as Refinery29 has been Refinery29. As a senior fashion editor she killed the game of knowing what was moving and shifting and trending—and why. Now that she’s the style/lifestyle media brand’s video producer and all-around emerging media lady boss, she travels the world making virtual reality and 360 video about humankind’s most interesting subcultures and arcane communities. Sometimes her stories intersect with fashion, and sometimes they don’t.

A short list of things she’s covered using innovative storytelling methods: cowboy poets, World AIDS Day, LGBT rights, and the Republican and Democratic National Conventions. And Fashion Month.

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“I feel really privileged to be able to bear witness to the center of a lot of worlds—a lot of different kinds of people’s worlds,” she told us after we met up on Sunday afternoon. “I just want to tell stories, to create time capsules of our shared and unique human experiences.”

We managed to coax her away from the drones and new age cameras for a while (it didn’t actually require any coaxing) to do some vintage hunting around Paris with the most analog camera we could manage. Fashion people who spend their weekends looking for Dior shoes from the 6os while carrying around an Instax—that’s a cultlike subset of passionate personalities too, right?

SEE WHAT AN AFTERNOON IN PARIS WITH REFINERY29 LOOKS LIKE

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Fashion Week

Christian Louboutin’s Guide to Paris, in Honor of His Upcoming Visit to Nordstrom

Let’s call it a cultural exchange.

On October 16, icon of all footwear icons Christian Louboutin is coming to Nordstrom’s downtown Seattle flagship headquarters; from there we’ll spend the next five days showing him around the Northwest, including a trip to Vancouver, BC. (And yes, we’ll definitely fill you in on all this in the days to come.)

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All images by Jessa Carter

Needless to say, we’re more than a little excited for the visit—his first to our neck of the woods—but since we’re currently camped out in his city, we asked him to give us a short list of personal must-hit Paris spots.

PUT ON YOUR RED-SOLED BEST + HIT LOUBOUTIN’S PARIS WITH US

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Fashion Week SPACE

Giant Ruffles and Even Bigger Hats: Jacquemus at Paris Fashion Week

Walking into the Jacquemus show back on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, I had a sort of flashback to the designer’s presentation one year prior, in which a white horse and small children with giant balls of fabric figured prominently. It was the first day of shows, and his name was on everyone’s lips; the collection as well as its theatrical presentation just brought more buzz.

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All images by Jessa Carter

While last year’s show had a bold and exaggerated sense of play, what we saw Tuesday was far more refined and sophisticated—yet truly no less spirited.

In the space of 12 months, Simon Jacquemus has beautifully repackaged the youthful energy that fueled his earliest collections and turned it into a kind of timeless, well-humored poise.

“He’s growing up,” said Olivia Kim when we discussed it a few days after, “but not losing any of that levity.”

CLICK IN TO SEE HIS DESIGNS

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Fashion Week

Crowd Surfing at Rick Owens During Paris Fashion Week

No one likes Rick Owens. If you’re into Rick Owens, you love Rick Owens. And some people who love the American-turned-Parisian designer basically live and breathe the brand.

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Fans outside the Rick Owens show in the designer’s current-season looks; all crowd images by Jessa Carter

Come Fashion Week, those people make for the best kind of circuscostumes, paparazzi, paparazzi for the paparazzi, and curious onlookers who might have no idea what’s actually going on. And then, of course, Anna and Giovanna. We got thoroughly caught up in the devotees and their amazing style on Thursday afternoon before the runway presentation at Palais de Tokyo, and then we entered the show to find the most extraordinary thing: pastel feathers and gentle, sloping accents of color.

CLICK IN TO SEE OUR LOOKBOOK

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