LVMH Awards

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Visiting Louis Vuitton Headquarters in Paris to Congratulate the LVMH Nominees

With that other awards show behind us, it’s time to turn our eyes toward this year’s LVMH Prize. Kicked off in 2013 by the Louis Vuitton Foundation as the global fashion world’s blue ribbon tournament, the prize is chosen by a jury featuring some of our favorite designers—Marc Jacobs, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Kenzo and Opening Ceremony, Phoebe Philo of Céline—and the list of past finalists and winners includes SPACE designers Vejas Kruszewski, Marques’Almeida, and Simon Jacquemus.

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Gloves by nominee Marine Serre; all images by Jessa Carter

Each March, just as everyone in the entire industry is in Paris for Fashion Week, the semifinalists are announced and an open house with the short-listed designers is held at Louis Vuitton’s main digs. We visited today to meet the crew and congratulate two SPACE designers for getting at least this close to the grand prize.

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VISIT THE LOUIS VUITTON HQ

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SPACE

Kicking Off SPACE LAB from Fashion Week

The SPACE team‘s fashion week spreadsheet had five new names on it this season: Eric Schlösberg, Eckhaus Latta, Dilara Findikoglu, A.W.A.K.E, and Vejas. Together, they represent our new shop-in-shop, SPACE LAB.

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Details from Dilara Findikoglu’s London Fashion Week presentation.

Debuting today in Seattle, Chicago, Los Angeles, Vancouver, Toronto and online, SPACE LAB is a fashion incubator; it’s a way for Olivia and her team to pay special attention to brands that are operating just a little bit outside the lines, and also just breaking their stride. It’s a way to nurture them and stand by them as their careers make important pivots.

And we do mean stand by them: Even though SPACE LAB is set up to stock and mentor five designers at a time for just one season starting this spring, we met with designers during New York and London Fashion Weeks (we’ll catch up with Vejas in Paris in about a week) to see what they’re presenting for next fall.

MEET THE DESIGNERS AND SEE WHAT THEY’RE SHOWING

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SPACE Brand Vejas: Making Waves at Paris Fashion Week

One of the best things about Fashion Week, no matter the city, is connecting with emerging brands on their way up. The first few collections of any one career become its foundation, after all. In the case of LVMH Prize-winning designer Vejas Kruszewski, it’s a matter of “building the values of the brand.”

That’s what he told W magazine in an interview titled, in part, “Meet the Five Young Designers Shaking Up Paris Fashion Week.”

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Vejas presentation and showroom detail; all images by Jessa Carter

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When we met up with the 19-year-old Toronto-based designer a few days after his Paris presentation, he told us that those values are futurism, abstraction and utility. 

CLICK IN TO FIND OUT WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE

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Designer Brandon Maxwell Doesn’t Have the Summertime Blues (But You Wouldn’t Blame Him If He Did)

Brandon Maxwell took the road less traveled to designer fame: He earned a degree in photography in 2008 then used it to assist stylist Deborah Afshani before moving on to work with the nearly incomparable fashion authorities Edward Enninful and Nicola Formichetti. Then he set up his own personal-styling practice, acquiring clients like—boom!—Lady Gaga.

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Brandon Maxwell

 

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Looks from Brandon Maxwell’s spring-summer 2016 collection. All images courtesy Brandon Maxwell.

From there his transition from arbiter to designer was seemingly, well, seamless. Although we all know that anyone who appears to be an overnight success invariably has lots of stories about struggle, waiting games, and hard, hard work.

Suffice it to say that Brandon Maxwell is on the fast track, and we’re thrilled to count his among our designer collections. In an effort to get to know this hot young talent, we chatted via email about how his summer is going.

CLICK IN TO SEE OUR Q AND A

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Fashion Week SPACE

Paris Fashion Week: LVMH Nominee Koché Brings Couture to the Street (No, Really)

As with just about everything, the French say it so much better. What we in the States might call an alley is in Paris referred to as a “passage” (pronounce it softly, like a spa “massage”). Last Wednesday night, in one that dates back to the 18th Century and is filled these days with a world-sourced mix of importers, food markets and hair cutters, weavers, and braiders, recent LVMH nominee Christelle Kocher staged her third season of Koché.

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What’s important about the setting is what important about the brand: Central to Christelle’s work is the act of putting highly technical and exclusive craft into the mainstream—into the very lifeblood of humanity. At her day job, Christelle oversees specialized embellishments for, like, Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel; for Koché, she uses this fine, couture background to reimagine basketball shorts and jigsaw velvet and paillettes into easy dresses you can throw on over a pair of jeans.

You’ve heard before of designers who apply couture techniques to ready-to-wear, but very few do it so well, and with such extremes.

HERE’S WHAT IT WAS LIKE IN THAT MAGICAL ALLEYWAY

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Fashion Week News: LVMH Finalists Include SPACE Designers and Heartbreaker Heroes

It’s not easy out there for a young fashion designer—can you think of a pursuit with more overhead, for example?—but organizations such as Louis Vuitton create a climate for making it work with their LVMH awards. Semifinalists for the 2016 prize have just been awarded, and we’re psyched to see some friends in the mix. 

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A Koche look featured in our exclusive editorial on SPACE; designer Christelle Kocher is a LVMH semifinalist

CHECK OUT THE OTHERS IN THE RUNNING

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Fashion Week SPACE

New York Fashion Week: Hood By Air on the Runway and in the Showroom

To call Hood By Air a cult brand is to call one of their insanely popular streetwear pieces a hoodie. In the present moment, they’re among the two or three brands that define the idea of a cult brand—just like their hoodies all but define the concept of a hoodie. (One might argue—probably quite successfully—that that honor would go instead to Vetements, but we’ll wait until Paris Fashion Week to discuss that.)

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All of which is just to say that their show last Sunday during New York Fashion Week felt more like a ceremony than a fashion show. And when we visited the brand’s Lower East Side showroom (inside what appears to be a Chinese restaurant), we found that that’s how they think of it, too. Right down to the fact that it was on Sunday. Come to find out their shows are always on Sundays, and insiders always observe them as ceremonial. This last week, the service was all about coming home. Fall 2016 is postmodern Odyssey.

SEE THE RUNWAY AND THE BEHIND-THE-SCENES IMAGES

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