Winged eyeliner, the pinnacle of Hollywood glamour and the little black dress of makeup, has finally received the upgrade it deserves. Since the days of Marilyn Monroe, Anna Karina and Brigitte Bardot, the coquettish flick has remained mostly unaffected by the changing times—until now. With all eyes on the runway, backstage beauty experts produced a bevy of fresh cat-eye looks, introducing audiences to a range of new shapes, colors and highly desirable drama. Below, we present Fashion Month’s best liner looks (plus shoppable links) that usher in a new era of feline flicks.
Welcome to Fashion Bytes, a cheat sheet for your favorite runway designers. From style inspirations to behind-the-scenes scoops, here’s everything worth knowing at New York Fashion Week Spring 2018.
The brand: Marc Jacobs
The history: When Marc Jacobs launched in the mid-’80s, the label was famous for giant sweaters that cool downtown girls wore like dresses, with tights and boots. By the ’90s, Kate Moss and Gisele were walking in Marc Jacobs fashion shows, and the brand’s oversized fuzzy coats and slinky color-block separates helped define the decade’s aesthetic. Today, Marc Jacobs is known for its witty, gritty, independent approach to luxury, as well as its popular scents like Daisy and Decadence. In 2014, it became the first luxury brand to cast its advertising campaign via hashtag (#castmemarc).
At 1:07 p.m., most of the models are still in hair and makeup as the backstage wardrobe room at the Manhattan Center bristles with the noise of paper ripping. The looks from Marc Jacobs′s new collection have arrived. They’re in sets of five or so inside the brown wrapping; within each set, each look is hung in an individual plastic bag—like the ones your dry cleaning comes home in. Drawstring bags filled with accessories and add-ons are attached to each outfit.
All images by Michael Yuri Chard
Historically speaking, the Marc Jacobs show has closed out NYFW; it usually happens at 6 p.m. and—in contrast to just about every other show—not a minute or two after. We’ve been invited to hang out backstage and watch the action unfold, and then capture the spring spectacular on the runway.
Marc Jacobs traveled back past the ’90s style revival to Victorian Gothic for his fall collection.
Kendall Jenner, Lady Gaga and other usually lovely ladies circled the Park Avenue Armory like crazed crows. Whitewashed faces, except for bleary black eyeliner, were surrounded by finger-waved hair; their ghostly mien overcome by the dark and dramatic clothes that seemed intent on swallowing them. Hypersized lace dickies and collars lay atop equally enormous silhouettes. Jet trails of muted sage, periwinkle and orchid amidst old MJ signifiers including polka dots and Stinky Rat prints swarmed hemlines above vertiginous platform boots. Exquisite velvet-and-lace evening looks met modern goth in Jacobs’s mildew-hued fur, gargantuan bows and sequined and feathered toppers.
SHOP: current season MARC JACOBS
The industry is changing, that seems to be the consensus. But with all of the streamed shows, musicians minting collections, fast fashion and bloggers as industry critics, the old adage rings true: the more things change, the more they stay the same.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2016 was a giant circus of stars and star-chasers. Black was back, with gothic overtones. And as fashion looked forward, it couldn’t help but glance back to the ’70s and ’90s. Here are the things that we think are notable from NYFW Fall 2016.
- Lady Gaga walked in towering boots for Marc Jacobs. Although the diva’s presence was momentous, the dramatic clothes and theatrical presentation required no gimmicks.
Hear that? It’s the sound of a legion of editors and bloggers stuffing shoes into designer luggage and tucking eye cream into carry-on bags. That’s right: It’s time for New York Fashion Week again. The shows begin February 10; let’s prepare by way of review. (Of course, since spring collections are arriving every day now, you can also review and prepare by shopping!)
Marc Jacobs photo: Jessa Carter for The Thread
The Marc Jacobs show has long been known as the finale of New York Fashion Week, so it’s no wonder his is one of the most highly anticipated—and buzzed about—shows. We were doubly lucky to not only get the backstage details on the look created by NARS, but to get those details from Mr. François Nars himself —the makeup legend and mastermind of the Marc Jacobs beauty look.
NYFW has come to a close and we’ve officially crossed the pond. But before we get started with London Fashion Week, we just have a few loose ends to tie up…
For as long as most fashion people can remember, MARC JACOBS has closed New York Fashion Week with a presentation at the Armory on Park Avenue. This season’s venue move to the Ziegfeld Theatre was a clue that the show would indeed be a show, in the manner of campy hijinks and cabaret.
Models walked down a red-roped red carpet outside the legendary movie house, popped and locked in front of a step and repeat, and then entered the main arena where buyers, editors and clients sat with their own MARC JACOBS popcorn and playbills.
Check out our scrapbook of this highly theatrical event and the Old Hollywood Americana looks featured there.
Tony Awards red carpet: Vanessa Axente & Joseph Altuzarra
Nordstrom Fashion Office Women’s Apparel Director, Marie Ivanoff-Smith shares her favorite trends from the red carpet at the 2015 Tony Awards at Radio City Music Hall in New York City.
TREND #1: SHOULDER FOCUS
“The way to wear sexy this season is by bringing attention to the shoulders. It was embraced by Bella Hadid looking flawless and minimal in Prabal Gurung while Amanda Seyfried exuded feminity in her Oscar de la Renta brocade dress.”—Marie
We’re used to hearing about how designers are caught between seasons; at any given time they’re sketching for one time of year, selecting models to walk a runway for another, and getting sales and marketing reports for a third. But some designers live in between geographic locations as well. For example Joseph Altuzarra. The designer was born in Paris, worked with Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in America, and then Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy in France before striking out on his own and settling down—and getting married—in New York City.
Image by Simon Cave, courtesy Joseph Altuzarra
Of course, who could choose just one city or the other—and why would they want to? There’s a time and place for everything, and we had the designer tell us exactly what that means for him. Keep reading for city-specific thoughts on baked goods, the ballet (he studied and performed for many years), perfect looks from his spring collection (but of course!), and more.