An ode to grunge seems to be resonating through the halls, or tents, of New York Fashion Week. Yet, in not-quite-equal measure, an intoxicating backlash of femininity is vying for attention—glamour, it seems, refuses to take a backseat. Thus, Wednesday’s lineup skipped around from gender defying to overtly sexual to all-out decorative feats.
Under the direction of newly minted creative leads Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the hotly anticipated DKNY show had something to prove. Sticking to what they know best (menswear), the Public School duo teased out the tension between hard and soft. Although they may have veered from the label’s unfussy DNA, they struck gold with deconstructed power suits reinvented as dresses and skirts. Sheer-to-silk fabrications with more fluid drape worked in softer elements. Palette anchored the elemental aesthetic. Save for two cobalt looks, every piece stuck to a black-white dichotomy.
Shop: current season DKNY