Paris played with varied dreamscapes this past weekend. Sarah Burton brought to life a fantastical, decaying fairytale, decked in shredded silk and lace with disheveled flowers and ruffles for Alexander McQueen. On the other end of the spectrum, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon envisioned the modern jet-setter’s real life aspirations of looking fresh on the fly for KENZO’s color-filled collection. Akris collaborated with Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. Céline made fresh tracks Sunday with a collection that went from lingerie slips to English fox hunt—all in a structurally experimental way, of course.
The flushed goddesses of Burton’s runway, while delicately beautiful, were grounded in personal history. Alexander McQueen traced his heritage back to Huguenot refugees fleeing religious persecution in the 18th century, bringing their covetable silk-weaving craft with them. Exquisite floral jacquards, French lace flowers and figure-tracing ruffles appeared again and again. An embroidered leather jacket in blush with a ruffled neckline was especially striking atop a lace column Victorianesque gown. Occasional modern, tailored pieces kept the collection anchored. But thanks to Burton’s softer approach this season, even the more extravagant gowns— with feathery mermaid skirts or spiraling tiers of lace—leaned toward measured romance.
Shop: current season Alexander McQueen