Winged eyeliner, the pinnacle of Hollywood glamour and the little black dress of makeup, has finally received the upgrade it deserves. Since the days of Marilyn Monroe, Anna Karina and Brigitte Bardot, the coquettish flick has remained mostly unaffected by the changing times—until now. With all eyes on the runway, backstage beauty experts produced a bevy of fresh cat-eye looks, introducing audiences to a range of new shapes, colors and highly desirable drama. Below, we present Fashion Month’s best liner looks (plus shoppable links) that usher in a new era of feline flicks.
Photos by Indigital Images
Welcome to Fashion Bytes, a cheat sheet for your favorite runway designers. From style inspirations to behind-the-scenes scoops, here’s everything worth knowing at New York Fashion Week Spring 2018.
The brand: Oscar de la Renta
The history: With a legacy of great American couture, Oscar de la Renta is the luxury hallmark of First Ladies, movie stars and socialites. Founded in 1965, the brand counted Jacqueline Kennedy as an early supporter. Worn on the Academy Awards red carpet and memorably in a McDonald’s on Sex and the City, Oscar de la Renta continues to be an American fashion standard for elegance and impeccable taste. (It’s also one of the only fashion brands that’s ever lured Taylor Swift to its front row.)
ICYMI: Several years ago, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia met as members of the Oscar de la Renta design team, and they decided to start their own line. Monse was born in the design duo’s evenings and weekends, but then just last year Laura and Fernando were given the top jobs at Oscar—they were made co-creative directors. While they’re certainly not the first designers to hold down two jobs (think Jonathan Anderson pulling double duty at J.W. Anderson and Loewe), the OdlR-rooted genesis of Monse made for a special case.
All together now: Fall collections from Monse and Oscar de la Renta take their finale walk. All images by Indigital Images.
It was announced this past January that the pair would show their debut collection as creative directors at Oscar at the same time as the latest from their closely watched two-year-old side project.
A fashion double-header!
Nordstrom’s senior fashion director Shannon Schafer was drawn in by the use of color and opulent fabrics in both presentations; our slideshows get you front row.
Amid a parade of elegant, DNA-allegiant party dresses, daytime separates and gala gowns on Tuesday, Oscar de la Renta creative head Peter Copping, in collaboration with show stylist Alex White, sent out what felt like a brand-new evening trend: the oversized and glamorous back bow.
They were mostly used to affix chokers, another of the season’s mini trends. Check out our runway look book and see how many of these gorgeous knots you can spot.
Starting off Monday’s runway shows, Tory Burch‘s latest collection took cues from beauty in unexpected places, issuing a nod to mod with some modern refinements. An abundance of embroidery, fringe and prepster smocking came as no surprise, while plunging necklines, breezy silhouettes and twists on Burch’s iconic caftan evoked beaches and blue seas. As the show progressed, the palette softened from daytime bold reds and blues to an equally at-ease iridescent pastel organza.
Shop: current season Tory Burch
When people ask how New York Fashion Week is different from Fashion Week in London, Milan and Paris, the easiest thing to talk about is the lineage of American sportswear. In the U.S., most designers make beautiful, classic clothing that you can wear on just about any Tuesday, and they style and showcase their collections in smart, efficient and, oftentimes, really fun ways.
In other Fashion Week cities, you see an increase in exclusive, eveningwear-like looks; there’s often more haute theater in the presentations and a feeling that the “f” in fashion is capped.
You know, fashion vs. Fashion.
But somewhere between the idea of ready-to-wear and, for instance, Milan’s super-sensual, high-end tradition or Paris’s storied ateliers is Oscar de la Renta. Here’s a look at the beautiful balance in spring ’16 from the label’s new designer, Peter Copping.
Tony Awards red carpet: Vanessa Axente & Joseph Altuzarra
Nordstrom Fashion Office Women’s Apparel Director, Marie Ivanoff-Smith shares her favorite trends from the red carpet at the 2015 Tony Awards at Radio City Music Hall in New York City.
TREND #1: SHOULDER FOCUS
“The way to wear sexy this season is by bringing attention to the shoulders. It was embraced by Bella Hadid looking flawless and minimal in Prabal Gurung while Amanda Seyfried exuded feminity in her Oscar de la Renta brocade dress.”—Marie
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: bold looks rooted in girl power at MARC BY MARC JACOBS, a ’70s Moroccan fantasy from Tory Burch, modern minimalism at Narciso Rodriguez and the bittersweet passing of the torch at the always lovely, classically feminine Oscar de la Renta show.
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
Like a lot of memories, some of the details are foggy. These images are from sometime around 2000, when Oscar de la Renta visited our Seattle flagship upon the launch of one of his fragrance collections. The snapshots of the designer and our employees were taken at a luncheon that preceded an in-store appearance.
And while the date of this particular moment is lost, what remains—what will always remain—is how the designer made us feel.
“Mr. de la Renta was the consummate gentleman in the industry; he understood how to make women look and feel beautiful. His work created a visual fantasy of sorts, but always with a nod to realism so you could be confident and enjoy the moment. His work was never confused with any other designer as it had a true signature: subtle but always recognizable in shape, pattern, color and construction. He also was one of the first brave American couturiers to explore beyond evening into sportswear, although he was always known for his beautiful evening pieces. The definition of couture was in transition in the ’80s; the French previously owned the category, but Mr. de la Renta gave credibility to American couture and elevated it, not just in terms of the quality of his collections and his construction, but also because he was so charismatic and charming.” —Sue Patneaude, Executive Vice President, Designer Women’s Apparel (retired)
“What I remember about meeting Oscar de la Renta in 2002 is his smile and quiet elegance.” —Kylie Allensworth, Internal Communications Director
“Mr. de la Renta was the first guest designer to come into the Jeffrey Fashion Cares fund-raiser in Atlanta. He was amazing that night with all of his fans; he was such a gentleman in every way.” —Jeffrey Kalinsky, Vice President, Designer Fashion Director
“What’s amazing about Oscar is that his reach went beyond his own collection. He had such influence on and was such a positive role model for American designers. Not that they ever tried to be him, but he was so well thought of. The biggest compliment to him, and to the business he built, is that women wear his clothes because they make them feel beautiful and feminine; his brand can continue because there is such a strong sense of what Oscar de la Renta stands for. We just had a big luncheon for Oscar de la Renta clients here in Seattle. He was not here for that, but his business has never been bigger or better. Even though the brand has been around since the late ’60s, it remains relevant, and I think that says something.” —Jennifer Wheeler, Vice President, Corporate Merchandise Manager, Women’s Designer Apparel
Image via New York Times
We’ve got highlights from yesterday’s shows, including sultry sirens from Rodarte, lush floral elegance from Oscar de la Renta and the latest from Tory Burch, Naeem Khan, MARC BY MARC JACOBS and Narciso Rodriguez.
Aquatic themes ruled the runway at Rodarte* with sequined mermaid dresses, earthy underwater palettes and skinny jeans paired with boho blouses and swashbuckling boots.