Shows and Scene at Fashion Week

Fashion Week

The View from Behind the Lens at Jean Paul Gaultier

Fashion Week photographers are usually seen crunched together at the end of a runway, all vying for the perfect shot. They may not appear to have the most glamorous job, but the photographers are the ones who truly have the inside access to not only the top shows but also to the models, elite editors and celebrities, all of whom want their pictures taken.

We asked Ford Leland—a Paris-based, American-born editor and photographer who’s shooting for us at Paris Fashion Week ’13—to provide some commentary on his bird’s-eye-view of the scene at Jean Paul Gaultier’s fall show.

One of my favorite things about Gaultier is that every single collection of his is a joy to photograph. Though his shows usually include a classic runway walk, his inspiration is always displayed through an elaborate combination of location, set design, styling and runway choreography.

This season, he chose to show at one of his classic locations from decades past, the Salle Wagram in Paris’ 17th arrondissement—a perfect complement to his retro-themed exploration of motorcycle jackets, armor, and graphic prints. Leather, fur and metals fused together in looks that referenced his days of dressing Madonna. My favorite compositions from the Gaultier runway are a true treat for the eyes—check them out below and then read on to see who I met backstage!

Joan Smalls, the #1 ranked model in the world, throws me a flirty glance from the catwalk.

After the show, I bumped into Coco Rocha backstage, who had just arrived in Paris four hours prior. Even under the stress of transatlantic jet lag, she was amiable and happy to share her thoughts on the first Parisian catwalk she’d attended as an audience member.

“I loved it, and I thought [the pieces were] very wearable. There were a lot of pieces I would wear as either an off-duty or on-duty model; it was very exciting to watch. Seeing it from this side of the runway just made me fall in love with Gaultier even more.”

Lloyd Simmonds, makeup creative director at Yves Saint Laurent, was also at the after-show cocktail party and filled me in on how he designed a look to match Gaultier’s powerful collection. “The focus of the makeup was beautiful, fresh skin, which was accompanied by a strong brow to create a slightly boyish look.”

After talking with Lloyd, I found Coco again, hanging out with her friends Karlie Kloss and Cara Delevingne (center), the latter of whom had just walked in the show.

On my way out the door, I ran into Shena Moulton, who I saw yesterday out causing trouble at a street market (read more). She was beaming because she’d just received one of the gift bags from the show, containing a bottle of Gaultier’s Classique Eau de Toilette Natural Spray Perfume. Seeing her smile was the perfect end to my fifth day of Paris Fashion Week ’13.

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Fashion Week

Salvatore Ferragamo’s Strength of Simplicity

Now entering the Dark Ages. Navy blue and slate grey were about as bright as the Salvatore Ferragamo runway got yesterday—a lack-of-color story that worked well with the collection’s sleek, finely tailored aesthetic. Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti centered on “architectural neatness” for fall/winter 2013, resulting in sharp collars, peekaboo sheers and short, asymmetrical hemlines. But we couldn’t stop gazing at the shoes—in particular, the pointed-toe boots with T-strap cutouts. They epitomize dark, downtown edge—and a girl too cool for color.

-Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Sneak Peek: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week

We’re beyond excited for Gucci‘s Fall/Winter 2013 show, taking place tomorrow at the Sheraton Diana Majestic in downtown Milan. The brand posted a couple sneak-peek pics of the venue and runway space on Instagram.

– Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Nanette Lepore Heads to Mars

As the lights dimmed at Nanette Lepore‘s fall/winter 2013 show at Lincoln Center on Wednesday, the runway turned into a metaphorical spaceship, and a voice boomed over the loudspeaker announcing our imminent arrival on Mars. Lepore wasn’t kidding. Her collection was rampant with futuristic flourishes, from iridescent sweaters and hologram handbags to asymmetrical necklines and geometric cutouts that wouldn’t be out of place on Star Trek. Lucky for us, they’re softened and toned down just enough to suit the modern woman—or, should we say, the woman of the future.

 – Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Sweater Envy at Elizabeth and James

Shoppers are frequently flabbergasted over how far ahead the fashion world plans: “Shorts for sale in February??” But when it comes to Fashion Week, looking at fall collections in the dead of winter feels pretty good. It’s all sweaters, coats and boots—just what the doctor ordered. Last night, Elizabeth and James brought the cozy and then some with its fall/winter 2013 presentation on the rooftop of the Hôtel Americano. Unveiled in tandem with the brand’s handbag launch, the collection featured plush pullovers made of feather yarn, faux shearling coats and the world’s cutest oversized polka-dot sweater. At this rate, winter can stay all year.

Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Reed Krakoff’s Reptile Kingdom

Themes aren’t always apparent in a new collection—it often takes an interview with the designer or a look at the show program to fully understand the thought behind the artistry. But with Reed Krakoff‘s fall/winter 2013 collection, shown today in Chelsea, there was no denying a serpentine motif weaving its way through his clothing and handbags. Python swaths coiled around an asymmetrical white dress while various shades of alligator composed the torsos of cashmere sweaters, the shafts of tall boots and the foundations of structured handbags and clutches. It’s clearly cool to be cold-blooded. (See also: the front row and our backstage beauty coverage of this show)


Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Classic Sophistication at Oscar de la Renta

Nearly 50 years in business, and Oscar de la Renta is still producing some of the chicest ready-to-wear around. He’s one of the few old-school designers who sticks to his aesthetic—feminine, luxe and decadent—but seamlessly weaves in trend-forward touches throughout the collection. For fall/winter 2013, unveiled in de la Renta’s showroom last night, modern concepts included draped leather, sculptural hats by Patricia Underwood and a vibrant psychedelic print. But of course, the classic cocktail dresses and over-the-top ballgowns were our favorites, styled with dainty sheer gloves and pointed-toe pumps. Bring on the fairy tale.

Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Bodysuits and Tie-Dye at Rodarte

Allow us to take you on a beautiful, winding journey through the Rodarte psyche. It starts with extreme bodysuits and silk chiffon, meanders into sheer dresses and embroidered sweaters, takes a hard left at tie-dye, and culminates with acid-washed draped silk fit for a Grecian statue. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy never fail to tell a unique story with their collections, and this season it touches on femininity, psychedelia and sensuality. Oh, and don’t forget the embroidered angel wings—there’s also an innocence to this journey that prevents you from getting lost.

Rodarte is available in selected stores. Call 1.877.543.7463 to talk to a Designer specialist.

Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

MM6 Maison Martin Margiela Layers Up

Pile on the layers: According to MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, the key silhouette this season puts volume on top and skinny on the bottom. For a brand that doesn’t toe the line with trends, they’re pretty spot on, and no one does oversized quite like Margiela. Yesterday’s show turned out a plethora of excellent coats, from draped capes to long puffer jackets. What stood out the most, however, were the bright pops of red and yellow—striking in a sea of washed-out neutrals.

Mary O’Regan

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Fashion Week

Tastemakers at New York Fashion Week, Pt. 2

We scouted the streets and shows for the industry’s top movers and shakers. (click here for Part 1)

Anna Dello Russo at Rodarte (we carry this brand in selected stores)

Carine Roitfeld at Rodarte

Terry Richardson at Rodarte

Ulyana Sergeenko at Rodarte

Olivia Kim, our new director of creative projects, at Rodarte

Jennifer Wheeler, our VP of designer apparel, and Pete Nordstrom, our EVP and president of merchandising, at Rodarte

James Goldstein at Theyskens’ Theory (see our photos from the show)

Alexandra Richards at Theyskens’ Theory (see our runway photos from the show)

Model Janice Alida outside Theyskens’ Theory (see our runway photos from the show)

Actress Maggie Grace at Alice + Olivia (see our photos from the show)

Nina Garcia at 3.1 Phillip Lim (see our photos from the show)

Caroline Issa at 3.1 Phillip Lim (see our photos from the show)

Blogger Kelly Framel at 3.1 Phillip Lim (see our photos from the show)

Model Mackenzie Drazan outside 3.1 Phillip Lim (see our photos from the show)

Mary O’Regan

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