Since making this roasted-cauliflower recipe two weeks ago for The Thread, I’ve already made it again for a dinner party. This dish—served at our Bazille restaurants—elevates a humble brassica to a whole new level of delicious. The sherry-raisin butter is sweet and pleasantly sour with the addition of a mild but refined good, aged sherry—and would be equally delicious as a spread for crostini, or anywhere you’d want a flavorful compound butter. Parmesan cheese and herby breadcrumbs add a nuttiness and textural freshness that make this side dish even more inviting. And then there’s my favorite, the fried capers. While it may seem an unnecessary extra step, shallow frying half of the capers makes them tiny, crunchy salt bombs, which adds a quick-to-achieve pro finesse—especially nice if you’re entertaining.