Fashion Week

What Editors from Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmo & Seventeen Do at Fashion Week, Yigal Azrouel and the Best-Smelling Show of NYFW, Tracy Reese’s Urban Warrior Princesses and Where to Find the Most Stylish Busboys

Fashion Week Journal for Sunday, February 15

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Images by Jessica Carter

At the bar at the Wes Anderson-ready Bowery HotelChristine Whitney, senior fashion news and features editor at Harper’s Bazaar, took out her iPhone, opened up the calendar and started counting.

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“Ten shows and one party.” She flipped the screen to the next day. “Twelve shows and two meetings.” Tilted the screen toward me. “You can see there are some conflicts.”

Such is life for a woman whose job it is to take the long view on fashion news and trends. Weeks like these, Whitney has three major things top of mind. Here’s how those key categories are shaping up for her thus far.

Trends: “Metallic fabrics, embellished biker jackets, patch elbows and turtlenecks—from traditional knits to the high-neck lace at Altuzarra that was like a ’70s wedding dress.”

News: Altuzarra did bags for the first time this season and they were really great. That was probably my favorite show so far.”

Emerging talent: “I love discovering new design talent, and we keep an eye on what’s happening with the models. Right now it’s Binx, Anna Ewers, and Mica Arganaraz.”

You can’t follow Christine in real life, because, as discussed, her schedule is bananas. You can,  however, follow Christine on Instagram. We do.

So that’s one editor, one week so far. How about another editor, with the week ahead?

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James Worthington-DeMolet, senior fashion editor at Cosmopolitan and Seventeen (yes, both), is looking for key pieces that he can use on covers and in editorial features. I’m officially putting that job on the short list next to the guy who gets to name the colors at Farrow & Ball. But still. Cosmo and Seventeen?

“It’s like I’m watching the shows with two different sets of eyes,” he told us. DeMolet says he likes a specific ratio of exposed skin necessary for Cosmo; if the skirt isn’t short, the shoulders must be bared. If the arms are covered, the midriff has to be out. Or something like that. So on one hand he’s looking for sexy, evocative numbers that will really make a splash, but on the other hand—for the younger set—it’s about trend, trend, trend.

As it turns out, all roads lead to Marc by Marc Jacobs and Elizabeth and James. Or they will, later this week. That’s what this keen stylist and 12-year inhabitant of New York’s fashion and magazine scene is psyched on.

(BTW, this is a good time to point out that he’s wearing what everyone in this city needs right now: a 10-foo-long fur scarf. His is dark green, by Marc Jacobs.)

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Images by Jessica Carter

On those collections:

“I loved [the line] Luella, so [Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s] debut collection for Marc two seasons ago was really exciting and amazing. I love working at a teen magazine while she’s creating things.”

“The other line that I shoot all the time is Elizabeth and James. Sometimes our fashion director is like, ‘I don’t think you need it this time.’ But they just always have the right looks. Their ability to translate what they do to different price points and age groups is incredible.”

You should get at James on the IG, too.

Now. How about that headline. Too early to call the “Best-Smelling Show of NYFW“? I don’t think so.

Most designers don’t even go there, but the moment we stepped into Yigal Azrouël, it was clear the designer wanted to make a fragrance statement. Showtime was 2pm, and the day was as sunny as it was cold (it was 18 degrees Fahrenheit before you calculated the wind), but the room was pitch black—all the better for cueing up the other senses—and the air was downright redolent.

So after we watched an artistically eyelined parade of black and white asymmetrical silhouettes that evoked the current fever for both couture finery and mens tailoring, we waited for our own eyes to adjust and consulted the program. And there it was: Bois d’Ombrie by Eau d’Italie had a credit line under Rita Remark for Essie and MHT Productions. Also on the printed materials, Azrouël’s stated intention: “A cognitive clash of individualism against a system.”

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Images by Jessica Carter

Shop: current season Yigal Azrouël
 

 

On the topic of details, we found out that the team at Tracy Reese has been thinking a lot about zippers and studs. Big ones.

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While backstage pre-show, trim manager Lisette Ffolkes showed us the bold, chunky features that would trademark both everyday separates and evening wear later in the show. Where the customary closure would be a size 3, the team selected 8s and 12s this time around. But there are soft elements, too—feather stripes and faux python trim.

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Those things coalesce in a mix of sport and tribal, knits and embellishments. Reese herself spoke of African textiles taking an urban, modern turn. “I didn’t want this collection to just be about the textiles,” the designer told us.

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Images by Jessica Carter

“We went in and looked at pattern and print and said, ‘How can we interpret this in a really modern way that transcends ethnicity’? We flattened patterns, we took a lot of inspiration from color. We’re also really excited for fake fur and patent leather this season. We’re using both of those fabrics a lot. We’re using cool rubber studs and lots of knits. This girl is on the street and in her life, these clothes will move with her. She’s an urban warrior princess.”

Shop: current season Tracy Reese
 

 

Rhea Carter, whom we met at Milk later that night, is sort of an urban warrior princess, too. She’s also your Blank Book girl o’ the day.

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And finally, because it’s fun to talk about what fashion people eat, images from each of today’s favorite pit stops: Artichoke Pizza, Los Tacos No. 1, and The Smile. All are cult favorites, but at only one will the busboys be better dressed than you. We’ll let you figure it out from there.

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 Lyz Olko of Obesity and Ben Jacobson, who tends bar at Kingston Hall, at The Smile; all images by Jessica Carter

—Laura Cassidy & Jess Carter

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Animated GIF of Laura Cassidy shot at Milk Studios by Jessica Carter

Follow Laura Cassidy and Jess Carter on Instagram