Chapter at New York Fashion Week: Men’s | S/S 16 Images and Designer Q&A

chapter2New York Fashion Week: Men’s began with a set of presentations by brands at Industria Superstudios in the Meatpacking District, one of which sounded like it was happening underwater.

Chapter, the Los Angeles-based label with an otherworldly and somewhat grim aesthetic, brought free-form industrial bass to the building courtesy The Floor, a duo consisting of Minimal Wave Records boss Veronica Vasicka and a man known only as Regis.

It was a good soundtrack for designer Devin Carlson’s spring/summer 2016 collection, which channeled dark vibes through conceptual clothing you could actually see yourself wearing.

We caught up with Carlson in the hallway during the presentation and talked about his inspiration for “Displacement” (the name of the collection), his impressions of #NYFWM and his early fashion experiments at Alta Loma High School.

chapter4Nordstrom blogs: Congratulations on this presentation. What does it represent, for you?

Devin Carlson: Basically, this season I was into visual refraction and mirroring. That’s where the prints came from. I started looking at kaleidoscopes, literally, and then let those lines get blurred in my designs. Repetitive geometry. You’ll see that in the smocking details. And I also started looking at what we’ve done in the past, specifically our hemlines, and thought, How can we build on this? Like  in this collection you’ll see a lot of more cropped, boxier silhouettes. In the past it was longer silhouettes, which I still love, but wanted to do something fresh.

chapter1What’s the impact of this first-ever standalone men’s fashion week in America?

Monumental. To be part of this first men’s fashion week in New York is incredible. And it makes so much more sense. When we showed before, sales season was completely done. It will be really interesting to see how impactful it will be for sales.

chapter2In your life, was there a turning point where you started caring a lot more about how you presented yourself?

In high school. I remember when I was 16 or 17 I bleached a pair of jeans. And I started going to thrift shops and buying woven shirts. But my aunt and grandma were sewers, so [fashion] was always around.

chapter3Do you feel like your clothes look like the west coast?

Eh, this collection a little. But overall I would say east coast, maybe? Because the east coast is more serious. But I don’t know about geography with our clothes. There are some brands you’d say, “that’s an east coast brand”. We’re not that. I travel a lot, so I draw inspiration from Japan, France, all over the place. But I would say that I deal in concepts a little outside this world.

chapter5 chapter6 chapter7–Andrew Matson

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