Paris Fashion Week

The series in which we hook you up with the feeds you need.

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If you have even a passing interest in men’s style, stop looking at your friends’ struggle meals on Instagram and start following Nordstrom Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.

Jorge was front row at the just-wrapped Paris Fashion Week, analyzing designers’ Spring/Summer 2016 creations. We must say, it’s a wild time for men’s style right now. We’re loving designers’ risks and overall confidence.

Here are some of our favorite snapshots from Jorge’s krazy life.

The hits: Supermodel Naomi Campbell murdering Riccardo Tisci’s menswear inches from Valls at the Givenchy show (automatic double tap for gender fluidity on the runway) and Thom Browne’s pop art kimonos hanging in gray space.

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We’re also fans of Jorge’s images from the Lanvin and Officine Generale shows. We’re super feeling the monochrome collection from Y-3 (the adidas/Yohji Yamamoto team-up coming soon to Nordstrom). The streetwear surrealism of Hood By Air is haunting our dreams.

See Paris Fashion Week through Jorge’s eyes below, and then check his Insta for more–he’s got a ton of shots from Milan Fashion Week on there, too.

Follow: Jorge Valls

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(Images and captions via Jorge Valls; L: One of the less “exposed” looks from the Rick Owens show, R: Drive-by of the Eiffel Tower–always looks dramatic in black and white.)

First we hit you with that Italian action and now it’s time for the French connection. Paris Men’s Fashion Week snapshots and commentary courtesy Nordstrom Men’s Fashion Office Director Jorge Valls:

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See the shows and street style of Paris Fashion Week through the masterful photographic lens of Joshua Woods. Keep reading for the full gallery—including an up-close look at collections by Paul Smith, Rick Owens, and AMI Alexandre Mattiussi—and if you missed them, catch up on Josh’s photo journals from London and Milan.

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If you’ve caught much Fashion Week coverage, either on this site or elsewhere, you’ve likely realized: The collections that visionary designers send down runways are in fact NOT explicit instructions on how they’d like to see you—the average, intelligent, style-aware male—dress yourself come next season.

What these spectacles of immaculately crafted clothing-as-art do provide, if approached with an open mind, is a window into  the extreme end of a designer’s current mindset. The best among them translate their inner vision into a performative presentation that makes you think—and no one puts on a more thought-provoking show than Thom Browne.

While previous Thom Browne productions (and they truly are that, with models not just walking, but often enacting odd tasks in surreal environments) have tackled aspects of Americana—preps, punks, astronauts—his most recent, Spring 2014, unveiled in Paris yesterday, is the first to hoist a patriotic color palette of red, white and blue. There were even stars and bars imprinted on the train of an elaborate officer’s coat (left) and the midriff of the red jacket at right.

To be fair, conventionally anti-menswear motifs like sleeveless coats, doily-trimmed socks, and, well, skirts, may have suggested a subversive satire on nationalism. Browne himself left his message open-ended as always, though—so we’re going to take it as all the more reason to go all-American for Independence Day this Thursday. Shop our favorites below, and more options here: Americana.



Obey tank top | Brixton hat | Sub_Urban Riot tank top
O’Neill board shorts | O’Neill tank top | Fossil watch

 

Clearly an expert multi-tasker, Browne also designs womenswear—as well as Moncler Gamme Bleu, an experimental, sport-inspired men’s line for down-jacket innovators Moncler. Recent collections have delved deep into the sartorial treasure troves of fencing, Indy racing and the Highland Games. Spring ’14, presented in Milan recently, took a fresh look at the traditional British game of cricket.

While a lot of critics (read: internet trolls) have been hung up on the black lips (perhaps a riff on cricketers’ predilection for zinc cream; definitely a classic TB move to confound audiences and contrast the otherwise clean-cut aesthetic)…we’re more focused on the crisp mix of whites.

Around the office, our men’s team has already been favoring white-on-white everything lately—and Browne’s blown-out dissertation on the subject pretty much solidifies it as a go-to way of getting dressed, both this summer and next. To do it right, mix tones, textures and fabrications as Browne does above. (And skip the lipstick.)



BLK DNM leather jacket | Pierre Balmain jeans | T by Alexander Wang tank top
Timex watch | Rag & Bone shirt | Converse by John Varvatos sneakers

 
 

[Instagram photos via @thombrowneny, @moncler, and @grungygentleman. Individuals mentioned and pictured do not endorse Nordstrom.]

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Our global street-style survey continues with a fresh batch of photos from roving correspondent Crystal Nicodemus—this time from Paris Fashion Week a few days ago. Re-create your favorite looks with the links below, and catch up with more street-style inspiration from London and New York.


The coordinating couples theme continues. We appreciate the subtle approach seen here, but to each their own.
[shop his look: sweaters | fedoras]


Digging this woman’s retro Nikes.
[shop his look: lightweight jackets | gloves | jeans]


What skirt? Call it a kilt. The brand behind this man’s shark-jaw hoodie, Givenchy, is available at selected Nordstrom stores—but re-create parts of his look here.
[shop: hoodies | baseball hats | high-tops]


This duo is harmonizing on a rare frequency. They varied the scale of their stripes, and his facial hair even matches her ombré highlights. Kudos.
[shop his look: overcoats | vests | dress shirts | sunglasses]


Classic windowpane pattern, with a Piet Mondrian twist.
[shop: coats | bags | shave]


shop: scarves | wool coats


shop: leather jackets | wayfarer shades


Color-blocking at its best.
[shop: red coats | orange pants | yellow shirts | beanies | backpacks | loafers]


Not sure who makes this Navajo-meets-military coat—but the jeans are by Nudie.
[shop: utility coats | sweaters | jeans]

[Photos by Crystal Nicodemus. Individuals pictured do not endorse Nordstrom.]

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Paris Street Style: Part Deux

Our very own street-shooting woman, Crystal Nicodemus, sent home a fresh batch of menswear from the bustling avenues of Paris Fashion Week. What’s the scene like on the ground over there? In Crystal’s words— “Summary: Soooooooooooo cold! Really, truly freezing.” That didn’t stop her from snagging shot after shot, between snow flurries, of well-turned-out runway patrons; in fact, all the better for capturing a wide cross-section of killer coats. DBs seem to be reigning supreme, with pops of orange and plaid making appearances. Scroll down to see for yourself—and in case you missed it, catch Crystal’s previous post featuring Kanye West, Tommy Ton, Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist and many more.



These two are ahead of the curve on emerging runway trends like turtlenecks and oversized outerwear.
(Shop: Turtlenecks | Double-Breasted Coats & Suits)


Shop: Boots | Bags



Shop: Peacoats | Overcoats
Varsity Jackets | Cords | Wingtips



This walking work of art looks like it came straight off a runway.
(In case you haven’t noticed, wearing your coat like a cape is the new killing it in 2013.)



Shop: Vests | Plaid Coats
Leather Jackets | Hoodies | Blazers


Shop: Camo | T-shirts



Shop: Scarves | Utility Coats | Backpacks
Bomber Jackets | Toggle Details | Snapback Hats


Shop: Shearling | Overcoats | Double-Breasted Coats & Suits



Shop: Peacoats | Newsboy Hats | Insulated Coats | Beanies | Jeans | Boots
Trench Coats | Sweaters | Chinos | Lightweight Jackets | Scarves


Eugene Tong (R) of Details Magazine.
(Shop: Utility Coats | Cardigans | Insulated Coats | Overcoats | Sunglasses | Sneakers)

 
 
 

[All photos by Crystal Nicodemus. Individuals pictured do not endorse Nordstrom.]

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Abstracted religious icons. Subversive stars and stripes. Angular flora and the now-pervasive snarling Rottweiler. By emblazoning instantly recognizable symbolism on everything from luxe T-shirts to tailored jackets, from his signature warrior kilt (don’t call it a skirt) to Kanye West’s and Jay-Z’s album art and stage wardrobe, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci has achieved a rare feat: pledged allegiance from runway critics and cool kids alike. While the man named Designer of the Year by GQ scattered a few emblematic graphics throughout his new Fall ’13 collection, the most memorable moments were delivered through creative fabrications and silhouettes. Check out our favorites below, followed by a video of the complete show.

[Above: artwork from the show’s invitation, by M/M Paris.]


Out-There Outerwear. Lapel-less suits and topcoats made a minimalist impression at the start of the show, but were soon displaced by experiments in sartorial armor like glazed tweed and primitively patchworked goalie gear. (Click images to enlarge.) Parkas worn as accessories at the waist were common throughout: an all-black evolution of Kurt Cobain’s cinched flannel shirts.


Graphic Content. Tisci’s signature pictographs manifested as Renassaince humanism juxtaposed with stark geometry—and upended Americana.


Leather Accents. Sometimes a little (like shoulder patches on a cropped toggle coat)—sometimes a lot (like the leather-front overcoat that alludes not-so-subtly to a butcher’s apron).

 


The Show. The cryptic vibe of the invite (up top) was carried through on the runway with séance-like candlelight and baroque classical music (which then gave way to an unapologetic break-up song).

 



The Details. Here’s a closer look at the elaborate jacket that looks like Frankenstein’s football pads…Sartorial looks so minimal that they lack lapels…A shackled twist on monkstraps…And argyle turned obscene.

 

Givenchy is available at selected Nordstrom stores.
For assistance, please contact a Designer Specialist at 1-877-543-7463.

 

[Invitation design by M/M (Paris), via Givenchy’s Facebook page. Runway photos by Marcus Tondo, via Style.com. Detail shots by Gianni Pucci, via Style.com. Backstage photos via Givenchy’s Facebook page.]

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Last season, Dries Van Noten (alumnus of legendary Belgian design collective known as the Antwerp Six) turned his attention to the ubiquitous but clearly open-to-interpretation realm of camouflage—transforming the traditionally rugged pattern into incarnations that alternately skewed gruff or gossamer, vibrant or vicious. For Fall ’13, Van Noten’s eye is on a different pattern—paisley—and his mind is focused not on far-flung wilderness, but simply on facing daylight after an evening of untold depravity. ‘Clothes for a quick exit,’ as Style.com quotes the official press release; the bleary-eyed walk of shame has never looked better.


Seeing Sounds. What began with widening lapels has morphed into a full-on early-’70s homage across the menswear landscape this season. Van Noten’s embraced the insanity, with exploded paisley paying tribute to acid rock like Hendrix and The Doors.


Reality Check. Where some looks drove the hallucinatory aspect home head-to-toe, others were rooted in wardrobe staples like shawl-collar blazers, DB topcoats and shearling-lined biker jackets—and only hinted at insanity.


PJs for the PJ. These luxed-out iterations of derelict-chic (robes, peej pants, the wooly socks with sandals up top) are one part agoraphobe, two parts what you’d wear to roll out of bed and onto your private jet.

Dries Van Noten is available at selected Nordstrom stores.
For assistance, please contact a Designer Specialist at 1-877-543-7463.

Check out the full Fall/Winter 2013 slideshow at GQ.com.

 

[Instagram photos, clockwise from top left, via @fashiontv, @philip_manghisi, @hannahemslie, @mensfashionfix; individual looks via GQ.com. If your work appears here and you’d like it removed or credited differently, please contact us using the ‘Email the Editor’ link at right.]

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Crystal Nicodemus, our very own street-style photographer, is in Paris as we speak—roaming alleyways, lurking outside shows, and generally on the prowl for the crème de la menswear crème during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. She caught so many iconic moments (including exclusive pics of Kanye West, Scott Schuman, Tommy Ton and more) that it was near impossible to edit down to a favorite few. Here’s a cavalcade of sartorial inspiration; stay tuned for even more from Crystal’s Paris trip in the days to come.



Shop: Denim Jackets | Sweatpants | All Things Camel
Trench Coats | Boots | Black Jeans




Austin Wong (in grey herringbone) wearing Thom Browne,
alongside expert lensman Tommy Ton (in orange).


Shop: Pink Socks | Peacoats



Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist himself.




From top: Creative proportions. (Shop: Bomber Jackets)
Bad Boy for life. (Shop: Backpacks)
Americana in Paris. (Shop: Wingtips | Scarves)


Another glimpse of Kanye West between shows.




From top—Shop: Sneakers | Sweaters | Leather Jackets

 

 

[All photos by Crystal Nicodemus. Individuals pictured do not endorse Nordstrom.]

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Our street-style photographer, Crystal, sent home way more killer photos from Paris Fashion Week than we could cram into a single post. Here’s a fresh batch of the trad-vs-avant-garde fashion mash-ups for which Parisians (and visiting dignitaries alike) seem to have a knack.

See more of Crystal’s work here: Paris Men Part 1 | London Men Part 1 and Part 2 | New York Women Part 1 and Part 2












 

[Photos by Crystal Nicodemus.]

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